Time to update your floor? Learn how to install laminate flooring as Steve walks you through this DIY flooring installation project.
Difficulty Level: Moderate. If you are not 100% confident installing laminate flooring, Lowe’s recommends that you hire a professional. Call 1-877-GO-LOWES to learn more about installation services through Lowe’s.
How To Prep Your Subfloor:
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2 tips from a licensed handyman/builder.
1st
To make the flooring layout more even so you have the same width of plank on both sides of the room (rather than having 1 full plank on one side and a partial on the other as shown in this video) take the extra remaining measurement and simply divide it in half.
(His room here was 29.87 planks. So conceptually, you want to divide that .87 of a plank into 2 parts and 1 part will go on each side. You will probably want to add 15% to the number of sq ft needed rather than 10% to account for the additional cut side row, but for most people, the look is usually worth it. If you have any extra, keep them on hand for any necessary future plank repairs if needed. For a plank 4 inches, not including tongue or groove, you divide 4 by .87 to get the cut width.)
Start your first narrower cut plank from this on one end of the room and then the same width measurement on the other side of the room. Similar to laying tile. Tile workers center the tiles with the room in both directions so it's even all around, so the remaining flooring doesn't look shifted to one side of the room.
2nd
Many people settle with the appearance of a caulking around the room, such as in this video (rarely) or by brad nailing something like 1/2" quarter round trim all around the outside of the room to cover the gap. Both will work, but there's a MUCH cleaner and finer finished look that is not as difficult or unsightly. Caulking can also sometimes dry harder over time and negatively affect the expansion ability of your flooring, potentially negating expansion gap purposes and still causing some buckling to occur. Another downside of both methods is that you are locking in your baseboard trim behind a rising floor and thus also reducing the appearance size (height) of your baseboard. The appearance part might not be a big deal to you; however, consider the following: If you ever have to replace baseboard trim, it risks damaging the flooring trying to get the old baseboard back out from behind the newer caulked or 1/2" quarter round trimaround the flooring as well as damaging new baseboard you are trying to install behind the edge of the floor. If you use caulk, forget it, everything is going to get damaged and messed up.
Instead, remove your baseboard trim from the room completely. (To avoid damaging the wall with the tool you are removing the baseboard with, place a putty knife between the wall and the removing tool of sufficient size. This disperses the impact of the tool over a large area, preventing damage to the sheetrock.) On the back of the baseboards, as you remove them, label each baseboard with a number or letter system and, in the area of the wall where the specific piece of baseboard was, mark a corresponding label on the wall. This way you will know where to put each baseboard piece back where it was originally fitted.
Yes, you will still need to trim the vertical door/entry way framing up from the floor to accommodate the new flooring as shown in the video; however, if you remove the baseboards completely, then simply run the edges of the new flooring planks to the edge of your sheetrock, you will have the expansion you need and replaced baseboard will provide the stability needed on top of the flooring for expansion and flooring to still work right. (Sheetrock on these walls are typically 3/8" to 1/2" inches thick, providing the needed expansion gap recommended by the manufacturer.) Typically, sheetrock is lifted above the floor about 3/8" to 1/2" to accommodate carpet and other flooring and help avoid the sheetrock absorbing water from a wet floor. This lifted area/gap below the sheetrock will provide for your new floor expansion needs.
Then, after laying the new flooring, clean up your baseboards from the existing nails and old caulking and, using brad or finish nails, reinstall the baseboards back over where they were on top of the new flooring in the places previously marked. Simply place it on top, no need to push the baseboard down more, which could cause a wedge effect and negate the ability of the floor to expand/contract. Baseboard is typically 1/2" to 3/4" thick, which will provide ample coverage around the edges for any shifting and more than any 1/2" quarter round trim will provide. Any replacement or repair of baseboards or flooring in the future will be MUCH easier and save you lots of money in time, materials and labor if you ever have to hire a handyman or contractor to do the repairs on the flooring or baseboards.
Doing the edges the way shown in this video could cost you up to another floor replacement in the future, rather than a much cheaper and simpler repair.
Lovely
Thought about trying this, but I think I better pay someone.
My simple ass isnt making puzzle pieces. I’m just putting them all one way lmfao. It’s for a room in a trailer anyways. Halfway done. Was just tryna see how it’s actually done 😂😂
Would be tidier with the skirting boards removed and the laminate behind them
It is important and will make it easy if you romove the baseboards before starting this project
I hate the way he talks
Missing the tools reference list in the description
why do you cut the tongue off the long side of the pieces?